Giffen's Glade

Nigerian Dwarf goat Information:

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Nigerian Dwarf goats are a miniature breed. Adults on our farm weigh between 40 and 100 lbs, depending on their genetics and feed intake.

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GOATS NEED TO BE HOUSED WITH ANOTHER GOAT.

You cannot buy just one. Goats are highly social animals and must be with other goats. If buying a buck, you must also buy a wether or another buck as a companion—unless you already own one. The same applies to does: goats must always be kept in pairs (or more).​

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Does should not be housed with bucks, as Nigerian Dwarfs can breed year-round. Bucklings can be fertile as early as 8 weeks, and doelings can also be fertile at 8 weeks, though it's more commonly between 3–5 months of age.​

Care:

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Goat hooves need to be trimmed every 2 weeks to 2 months (this varies by individual goat) to maintain optimal hoof health. We currently use the Hoof Boss, which has worked well and trims hooves much faster than traditional clippers. Goats can be affected by lice, mites, and internal parasites—consult your veterinarian for proper diagnosis and treatment, not the internet.

Feeding:

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Kids should be fed grass hay (a small amount of alfalfa or clover mixed in is okay). Alfalfa or red clover hay should be fed only to lactating does. All goats require free-choice loose mineral (not a block), specifically formulated for goats. Goat minerals must contain adequate copper, which is essential for their health. Goats should always have access to clean water (they won’t drink dirty water), and forage—hay in feeders, pasture, or tree leaves. As ruminants, they need constant access to forage to keep their rumen functioning properly.

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Be sure to check their enclosure for any toxic plants or trees. Grain should only be given to pregnant or lactating does. Kids do not need much grain or sweet feed unless they are underweight. Bucks and wethers should be fed minimal grain to avoid the risk of urinary calculi (stones), which can develop from an imbalanced calcium-to-phosphorus ratio.

Fencing:

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We recommend fencing at least 5 feet high—goats can jump surprisingly high when motivated. They are curious and clever animals that will find escape routes. Woven wire is the most durable option, as our goats have broken through welded wire. Electric fencing works well for adults but is less effective for kids, who can slip through small gaps. We use a combination of woven wire and electric fencing for our does and kids. Our bucks are kept behind electric net fencing and only have pasture access when the ground is snow-free.

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Housing:

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Straw or wood shavings make excellent bedding. Bedding should be cleaned out frequently (ideally monthly or sooner), as ammonia from urine builds up quickly and can damage their lungs. We lock our goats in at night to protect them from predators, as we have coyotes in our area. Shelters don’t need to be insulated, but they should be draft-free and have four solid walls for winter. Goats grow thick coats to keep warm in cold weather.

Breeding:

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Does should not be bred before they are at least 8 months old, weigh over 40 lbs, and have a rump width of at least 4.5 inches (thurl to thurl). I personally prefer to wait until they are at least 1 year old and over 45 lbs. Some goats don’t reach 40 lbs until age 2.

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Bucks must be housed separately from does, as Nigerian Dwarfs can breed year-round.

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One of the biggest mistakes new goat owners make is buying a buck based on colour—this should never be your main reason (in our opinion). Colour is a bonus, not a foundation. Bucks should be purchased to improve your herd, regardless of whether it’s for milk, meat, or pets. Choose a buck based on his parents (if he is young) or progeny. Ask for pictures of his dam, sire, and siblings to see if they carry the traits you wish to strengthen. Don’t rely solely on a farm’s name—no farm produces only exceptional animals. Traits like blue eyes, being polled, moon spots, wattles, and coat colour should be icing on the cake, not the cake itself.

Kidding:

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We've learned that the best kidding pens are those where moms cannot see each other in adjacent pens, but can still see and interact with the rest of the herd. This reduces fighting when they rejoin the group after a few days to a week of bonding with their kids.

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It’s essential to attend every birth, even if everything goes smoothly, to ensure kids receive colostrum and are moving well. If something is wrong, you're there to help or call for help. For a weak or cold kid, check its temperature. Placing a plastic bag over its body and submerging it (except the head) in a warm sink can help bring body temperature back up. Do not feed a cold kid—wait until their temperature is normal.

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All kids must receive their dam’s colostrum within the first 24 hours. If the dam has none or rejects the kid, we keep frozen colostrum from previous years in our freezer. For bottle babies, we mix thawed milk from previous years with current milk from the dam, and occasionally with milk replacer. In our experience, mixing old and new milk helps reduce scours and digestive upsets that can occur with milk replacer alone. Try to incorporate at least some of the dam’s milk for its valuable antibodies.

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Buying Goats:

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​Only buy from herds free of CAE, Johne’s, and CL (abscesses). These diseases can devastate your herd, and some can remain in soil for years. Ask detailed questions about the goat’s history and health. Request pedigree documents, health records, and proof of disease testing. Buy from a reputable breeder who provides a written receipt after purchase.

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All information above is based on our personal experience raising goats and should not replace veterinary or professional advice. If you have questions not covered above, feel free to email us at giffensglade@gmail.com. Google and YouTube can be helpful tools, but always fact-check what you read or watch. For medical concerns, consult a veterinarian—not the internet. For example, injectable dewormers should not be given orally, even if some websites suggest otherwise.