Information for those who are new to goats or are still learning:
Nigerian Dwarf goat Information:
Nigerian Dwarf goats are a miniature dairy breed. Adults on our farm weigh between 40 and 100 lbs, depending on their genetics and feed intake. Our does typically keep growing until 2 years old and our bucks at 3 years old. Per Canadian Goat Society breed standards, maximum height at the wither for does is 22.5" or 57.15 cm and for bucks is 23.5" or 59.69 cm (Jan 1, 2026).
GOATS NEED TO BE HOUSED WITH ANOTHER GOAT.
You cannot buy just one. Goats are highly social animals and need to be with other goats. If buying a buck, you need to also buy a wether or another buck as a companion—unless you already own one. The same applies to does: goats must always be kept in pairs (or more).
Does should not be housed with bucks, as Nigerian Dwarfs can breed year-round. Bucklings can be fertile as early as 8 weeks, and doelings can also be fertile at 8 weeks, though it's more commonly between 3–5 months of age. Goats don't care who their related to.
Care:
Goat hooves need to be trimmed every 2 weeks to 2 months (this varies by individual goat) to maintain optimal hoof health. We currently use the Hoof Boss, which has worked well and trims hooves much faster than traditional clippers.
Goats can be affected by lice, mites, and internal parasites—consult your veterinarian for proper diagnosis and treatment, not the internet. Signs include itching more than normal, flaky skin, patchy coat, poor body condition, loose stool (dog turds or diarrhea), etc.
Feeding:
Kids should be fed grass hay (a small amount of alfalfa or clover mixed in is okay). Alfalfa or red clover hay should be fed only to lactating does. All goats require free-choice loose mineral (not a block), specifically formulated for goats. Goat minerals must contain adequate copper, which is essential for their health. Goats should always have access to clean water (ours won’t drink dirty water), and forage—hay in feeders, pasture, or tree leaves. As ruminants, they need constant access to forage to keep their rumen functioning properly.
Be sure to check their enclosure for any toxic plants or trees. Grain should only be given to pregnant or lactating does. Kids do not need much grain or sweet feed unless they are underweight. Bucks and wethers should be fed minimal grain and alfalfa/clover to avoid the risk of urinary calculi (stones), which can develop from an imbalanced calcium-to-phosphorus ratio.
Fencing:
We recommend fencing at least 5 feet high—goats can jump surprisingly high when motivated. They are curious and clever animals that will find escape routes. Woven wire is the most durable option, as our goats have broken through welded wire. Electric fencing works well for adults but is less effective for kids, who can slip through small gaps. We use a combination of woven wire and electric fencing for our does and kids. Our bucks are kept behind electric net fencing and only have pasture access when the ground is snow-free.
Housing:
Straw or wood shavings make excellent bedding. Bedding should be cleaned out frequently (ideally monthly or sooner), as ammonia from urine builds up quickly and can damage their lungs. We lock our goats in at night to protect them from predators, as we have coyotes in our area. Shelters don’t need to be insulated, but they should be draft-free and have four solid walls for winter. Goats grow thick coats to keep warm in cold weather but may require more feed or more calorically dense feed.
Breeding:
Does should not be bred before they are at least 8 months old, weigh over 40 lbs, and have a rump width of at least 4.5 inches (thurl to thurl). I personally prefer to wait until they are at least 1 year old and over 45 lbs. Some goats don’t reach 40 lbs until age 2.
Bucks must be housed separately from does, as Nigerian Dwarfs can breed year-round.
One of the biggest mistakes new goat owners make is buying a buck based on colour—this should never be your main reason (in our opinion). Colour is a bonus, not a foundation. Bucks should be purchased to improve your herd, regardless of whether it’s for milk, meat, or pets. Choose a buck based on his parents (if he is young) or progeny. Ask for pictures of his dam, sire, and siblings to see if they carry the traits you wish to strengthen. Don’t rely solely on a farm’s name—no farm produces only exceptional animals. Traits like blue eyes, being polled, moon spots, wattles, and coat colour should be icing on the cake, not the cake itself. Health and longevity should be a number one priority in our opinion no matter your breeding goals.
Kidding:
We've learned that the best kidding pens are those where moms cannot see each other in adjacent pens, but can still see and interact with the rest of the herd. This reduces fighting when they rejoin the group after a few days to a week of bonding with their kids.
It is very important that kidding areas be clean. Dirty kidding areas are assocaited with an increase in neonatal diarrhea caused by E. coli. Dipping their umbilical cords in iodine can also decrease their risks of blood borne infections.
Kidding should occur 140-150 days after their breeding date. We get our does induced by our veterarian on day 150 if they have not kidded yet but are bagged up. In that case its very important that our breeding date is not wrong or kids could be under developed or over developed.
It’s essential to attend every birth, even if everything goes smoothly, to ensure kids receive colostrum, are not hypothermic, and are moving well. If something is wrong, you're there to help or call for help. For a weak or cold kid, check its temperature. Placing a plastic bag over its body and submerging it (except the head) in a warm sink (108 degrees fahrenheit) can help bring body temperature back up (over 103 degrees fahrenheit). Do not feed a cold kid—wait until their temperature is normal.
All kids must receive their dam’s colostrum within the first 24 hours, the sooner the better. If the dam has none or rejects the kid, we keep frozen colostrum from previous years in our freezer as well as bovine colostrum replacer from a feed store. For bottle babies, we mix thawed milk from previous years with current milk from the dam, and occasionally with milk replacer. In our experience, mixing old and new milk helps reduce scours and digestive upsets that can occur with milk replacer alone. Try to incorporate at least some of the dam’s milk for its valuable antibodies.
We use Philips Avent 5 month (human) baby bottles for our newborns. We find they have a hard time with the larger red nipples since Nigerian Dwarf kids are so small when they are born. They typically only drink 20-50 ml per feeding every 4 hours.
Buying Goats:
Only buy from herds free of CAE, Johne’s, and CL (abscesses). These diseases can devastate your herd, and some can remain in soil for years. Ask detailed questions about the goat’s history and health. Request pedigree documents, health records, and proof of disease testing. Buy from a reputable breeder who provides a written receipt after purchase.
All information above is based on our personal experience raising goats and should not replace veterinary or professional advice. If you have questions not covered above, feel free to email us at giffensglade@gmail.com. Google and YouTube can be helpful tools, but always fact-check what you read or watch. For medical concerns, consult a veterinarian—not the internet. For example, injectable dewormers should not be given orally, even if some websites suggest otherwise.